I came to rhubarb late: for years I walked past it at the farmers market, put off by its appearance and mildly suspicious of anything that required that much sugar to be edible, and then a friend made a rhubarb crumble one spring evening and I understood immediately what all the fuss was about. The custard underneath is what makes this worth the effort of blind baking a pastry shell, which I will admit is not my favorite afternoon activity, but a proper custard set to something smooth and barely trembling in the oven is one of the more satisfying things I know how to make. My oven and I have had our disagreements over the years, and this is one recipe where we have come to a quiet understanding. I like to make it in the spring when the rhubarb is young and pink and not yet too sour, and most of the time, less is always more: a light dusting of icing sugar on top and nothing else.

Rhubarb is one of those ingredients that looks like it cannot possibly taste good and then surprises you completely. The stalks are alarming. The color is magnificent. And once it is cooked down with a little sugar and poured into a buttery tart shell with a silky custard underneath, the whole thing becomes something I find very difficult to eat in moderation. Let me just say, this tart has caused me to have a second slice before finishing the first.
For the pastry
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons icing sugar
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
1 large egg yolk
2 to 3 tablespoons ice cold water
For the custard
3 large eggs
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the rhubarb
3 to 4 stalks fresh rhubarb (about 300g), trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon water
Make the pastry: combine the flour, icing sugar, and salt in a bowl. Add the cold butter and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Mix the egg yolk with 2 tablespoons of cold water and stir into the flour until the dough just comes together, add the extra tablespoon of water only if needed. Flatten into a disc, wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry to fit a 9-inch tart tin with a removable base. Press it in carefully, trim the edges, and prick the base all over with a fork. Return to the refrigerator for 20 minutes. Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C).
Line the chilled pastry with baking paper and fill with baking beans or uncooked rice. Blind bake for 15 minutes, then remove the paper and weights and bake for a further 8 minutes until the base is pale golden and dry. Set aside to cool slightly. Reduce the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C).
Place the rhubarb, sugar, and water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 6 to 8 minutes until the rhubarb is just tender but still holding its shape. Set aside.
Whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar until combined. Add the cream, milk, and vanilla and whisk gently, you want it combined, not aerated. Strain through a fine sieve.
Arrange the rhubarb evenly across the base of the tart shell. Carefully pour the custard over the top, it will come nearly to the rim. Bake for 28 to 32 minutes, until the custard is just set with a very slight wobble in the center. A little wobble means it is perfect. Do not overbake or it will crack, and you will be disappointed.
Let the tart cool completely in the tin before removing. Dust lightly with icing sugar if you like. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled, it is lovely either way.
Leave a comment